Thursday, April 3, 2014

Olfactory Inspiration / Mirisna inspiracija


Spring awakens all our senses. I still recall my favorite, never forgotten perfume, the one that perfectly suited my personality and taste. A true masterwork of the best: Kingdom, signed by Alexander McQueen and created by Jacques Cavallier. The perfume was sadly discontinued (still can't get over it) simply because it didn't appeal to the American market. It wouldn't sell because it wasn't a sweet flowery scent, but rather a twisted dark fantasy recalling bodily fluids and pheromones. Neroli, bergamot, rose, celery seeds, rhubarb, amber and musk wrapped in a decadent fantasy. Years later after it was discontinued (and is now selling for ridiculous amounts on eBay), I am still hoping to find at least a decent substitute. Following perfume choices intrigue me and are on my spring wishlist.

Proljeće budi osjetila. Još se uvijek prisjećam mog omiljenog, nikad prežaljenog parfema, jedinog koji je savršeno odražavao moju osobnost i ukus. Pravo remek-djelo najboljih: Kingdom ("Kraljevstvo") dizajnera Alexandera McQueena, te kreatora Jacquesa Cavalliera. Kingdom se prestao proizvoditi iz jednostavnog razloga što se nije svidio američkom tržištu. Nije bio slatkasto-cvjetni miris, već otkačena mračna fantazija koja podsjeća na kemiju ljudskog tijela i feromone. Gorka naranča, bergamot naranča, ruža, sjemenke celera, rabarbara, ambra i mošus umotani u dekadetan veo. Puno godina nakon još se uvijek nadam naći dostojnu zamjenu (a da ne moram trošiti sulude iznose za koje se Kingdom prodaje na eBayu). Slijedeći parfemi probudili su moja osjetila i nalaze se na listi želja.


 Favourite, now discontinued Kindom EDP by Alexander McQueen.


1. Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood
A chypre-floral fragrance for women, dedicated to a feminine and strong woman, with accentuated sexuality. The heart is sweet and opulent with jasmine, luscious rose, narcissus, carnation, orris root, cardamom and coriander. The base brings patchouli, warm and milky sandal wood, tobacco leaves, cinnamon and powdery soft vanilla. Not for the faint of heart!

2. Agent Provocateur for women by Agent Provocateur

Sharp, very intensive animalistic and very provocative juice has become a modern classic combining Indian saffron, coriander from Russia, Egyptian Jasmine and Vetivert from Haiti among other exotic elements. Can't wait to try it.

3. Coco Noir by Chanel
A great nocturnal Baroque. Another journey in the wake of a Gabrielle who fully embraced the dazzle of black and Venice. Top notes: grapefruit, Calabrian bergamot. Heart: rose, narcissus, rose geranium leaf and jasmine. Base: tonka bean, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli and white musk frankincense. I love it, reminds me of a decadent costume ball.

1. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir
"Chypre"-cvjetni parfem za snažne žene naglašene seksualnosti. Srce parfema su slatke note jasmina, opojne ruže, narcisa, karanfila, korijena irisa, kardamoma i korijandra. Baza je sačinjena od pačulija, tople i mliječne sandalovine, listova duhana, cimeta i mekane puderaste vanilije. Nije za sramežljive!

2. Agent Provocateur
Oštar, intenzivan, animalan i vrlo provokativan, postao je moderan klasik kombinirajući indijski šafran, ruski korijandar, egipatski jasmin i haićanski vetiver, uz druge egzotične elemente. Jedva ga čekam probati.

3. Chanel Coco Noir
Odličan noćni barok. Još jedno Gabriellino putovanje, ovoga puta prigrlila je noć i Veneciju. Vrh: grejp, kalabrijska naranča. Srce: ruža, narcis, list crvenog geranija i jasmin. Baza: brazilska tonka, burbon vanilija, sandalovina, pačuli i bijeli mošus. Obožavam ga, podsjeća me na dekandentni maskenbal.



4. Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle

Carnal Flower or forbidden flower is a fragrance with the scent of tuberose. Tuberose is a beautiful and dangerous flower. Dominique Ropion worked on development of the formula for more than two years. The perfume contains a larger dose of tuberose absolute than any other perfume.

5. Santal Blush by Tom Ford
Enchanting, mysterious, glamorous and exotic woody - spicy scent. It is ruled by creamy notes of sandalwood and spices, with rich floral and woody tones. I have been wanting this Tom Ford olfactory creation for a while now, but the price is steep.

6. Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Oriental Spicy fragrance for women and men. The fragrance features passion flower, sandalwood, red rose, vanilla, saffron, sugar and ginger. When I tried it, I couldn't stop sniffing my wrist, the saffron is dominant, yet the perfume is very discreet.


4. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower
Parfem zabranjenog cvijeća ima veću dozu tuberoze od ijednog drugog poznatog mirisa. Tuberoza je prekrasno i opasno cvijeće, a Dominique Ropion radio je na stvaranju ovog parfema dulje od dvije godine.

5. Tom Ford Santal Blush
Opojan, tajanstven, glamurozan, miris egzotičnih, drvenih i začinskih nota. Njime vladaju kremaste note sandalovine i začina, bogatih cvjetnih i drvenih nota. Želim ga već dulje vremena, no cijena je uistinu paprena.

6. L'Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant
Orijentalno-začinski uniseks parfem. Miris se sastoji od passionflowera, sandalovine, crvene ruže, vanilije, šafrana, šećera i đumbira. Kada sam ga probala, nisam mogla prestati njuškati zapešće, šafran dominira, no parfem je vrlo diskretan.

No comments:

Post a Comment